Yoshisuke

Set within a residential pocket of Shimizucho, Itabashi Ward, Yoshisuke is a quiet sushi restaurant where careful, traditional craft takes centre stage. Step inside and you are greeted by an L-shaped counter of pale plain wood, with table seating set further back. It provides an easygoing environment tailored to different moods, whether you want to linger quietly over a drink on your own or celebrate a special occasion with family.

A natural first order is the signature bakudan. The dish brings together an indulgent mix of sea urchin, salmon roe, squid, and fatty tuna, and pairing it with a small bite of seasoned sushi rice brings out the savoury depth of the seafood even further. Taking your time over seasonal side dishes such as shirako (cod milt) or ankimo (monkfish liver) alongside beer or sake is very much part of the experience.

For sushi, the popular jo-nigiri set is an easy choice, though guests can also tailor their meal by starting with sashimi appetisers before moving on to nigiri piece by piece. From delicate kanpyo gourd rolls to sweet rolled omelette, the attention to detail is palpable throughout, delivering the unhurried satisfaction unique to a proper neighbourhood sushi shop.

Open for both lunch and dinner, Yoshisuke suits a relaxed midday bite as easily as an evening settling in at the counter with an advance reservation.